How to repair a Beretta geyser if it does not burn and does not heat? In this article, we have collected the main causes of breakdowns, gave tips on how to fix them.
Beretta has been manufacturing heating equipment for 60 years. Flowing heaters are an economical way to get hot water, but with long-term use, the equipment fails.
Major malfunctions and DIY repair
Consider the main problems of the Beretta boiler, as well as ways to resolve them without contacting a service center.
Igniter problems
When the water heater is working, the igniter should be on continuously. If you stop holding the gas control knob and the igniter does not light, this indicates a problem with the automation. The first thing to do is to shut off the supply of water and gas.
The flame in the burner occurs when the igniter heats the thermocouple. If it goes out, the protection system works - the column is turned off. Otherwise, there is a risk of carbon monoxide entering the room. A similar problem can be provoked by such safety parts:
- Thermocouple.
- Overheating sensor.
- Solenoid valve.
Protection is triggered by occasional maintenance of equipment. See if it’s time to clean the ignitor: blockage often occurs in dusty and humid rooms. Which indicates the need for cleaning:
- The burner ignites with a strong pop.
- The flame is not blue, but with red tips.
- The burner constantly goes out.
How to clean:
- Shut off the gas supply, remove the column cover.
- You will see the igniter, it can be clogged with soot.
- Unscrew the tube sensor thrust and gas supply.
- Remove and clean the nozzle.
- Rinse the tee and other parts under running water.
- Reassemble the igniter in the reverse order.
Additionally, you can check the solenoid valve, but for this you will need a multimeter.
Thermocouple Malfunctions
Thermocouple - an alloy of two types of metal, which serves to protect equipment from damage. The part opens and closes the gas supply to the burner. When the thermocouple is heated, its plates expand, producing EMF (electromotive force). This force is enough to open the electromagnetic gas valve. When the heating stops, the product cools, the supply is shut off.
For self-repair you will need spare parts. Keep in mind that different models (for example, Idrabano 11) may differ.
- A thermocouple is located next to the igniter. It is fixed with a nut.
- Loosen the bracket that holds the part.
- Now unscrew the thermocouple nut counterclockwise.
- Loosen the contact screw. It is located on the back of the adjustment knob.
- Disconnect the wiring.
- Install a new item.
Solenoid valve failure
The valve is a coil with a rod and a spring, which serves as protection against gas entering the room. Around the coil is a seal for better closing of all slots. In normal condition, the valve is closed when the equipment is turned off. When the circuit starts and the membrane is triggered, the control module sends a signal to the valve to open - gas enters the burner.
It is not difficult to replace the part; it is enough to unscrew the four fastening screws with a screwdriver.
Thermal Fuse Issues
It works when the column overheats. Try to lower the room temperature by opening the windows. To check the fuse, you need to close its contacts with each other. If the column turns on, then it means overheating. If not, the part is replaced.
Heat exchanger clogged and leaked
If the equipment is bad or does not heat water at all, you need to clean the radiator. The pressure can also decrease, because the coating narrows the passages in the tubes of the coil.
For cleaning you need:
- Remove the product cover.
- Drain the radiator.
- Unscrew securing bolts.
- Immediately clean the assembly of dust with a brush. Citric acid and hydrochloric acid are used to remove scale.
- Drive the hydrochloric acid solution through the coil with a pump or watering can.
- Dilute citric acid in water, pour inside.
- After 30 minutes, rinse with water.
In more detail about repair and cleaning of the heat exchanger we wrote in the previous article.
Leakage occurs due to corrosion. Manufacturers are trying to reduce the cost of production by adding impurities to copper for the radiator. The walls become thin, warm unevenly. Burnouts appear as a result. The abundance of green spots on the surface indicates a quick leak.
Eliminate the accident by soldering. To do this, use a gas burner (for thick-walled radiators) or a soldering iron. You will also need solder and flux.
You can use cold welding or a patch of tin. If it is already impossible to help with anything, the heat exchanger is replaced.
When choosing a replacement part, carefully watch that the new radiator is not soldered or repaired.
No spark when turned on
What was the reason:
- Membrane problems. As we already wrote, the membrane starts the gas supply valve. To do this, it must be whole and elastic. If the membrane is worn, stretched, deformed and torn, the burner will go out or not light at all. Replace the rubber part with a silicone one, it will last longer.
- In the electronic ignition technology, the batteries have run out. The power supply is located at the bottom of the chassis. Open the cover and replace the batteries.
- Inadequate cold water pressure. Turn the adjustment knob to the right and down.
- Hold the piezo ignition button for longer. Check his contacts: maybe they have departed.
- The ignition electrode has shifted and is located at a great distance from the wick. Adjust the position.
- Check if the gas tap is open. If not, then open it.
- No traction. Check the guess by bringing the lit match to the window. If the flame burns steadily, contact the utility to clean the chimney.
These are typical malfunctions of Beretta geysers. Other troubles happen depending on the situation. Take care of the equipment to avoid such problems.